Vivienne Westwood (1941–2022)
“Extraordinary”
An individual who goes beyond the ordinary or typical. There are numerous adjectives that can be used to describe Vivienne Westwood, but “extraordinary” seems to capture her essence most concisely. She is a trailblazer who has disrupted the fashion industry with her bold and unconventional style, particularly as a critical figure in the punk movement of the 1970s. Westwood demonstrated how fashion could directly influence society and culture and was not content to adhere to the status quo simply. Instead, she actively sought ways to make a difference and put her ideas into practice.
As sociologist Dick Hebdige notes, Westwood refused to follow convention and instead took “action.” From the perspective of traditional fashion, the punk movement was seen as disruptive and even revolutionary. Punk fashion, as embodied by Westwood, was characterized by its use of unconventional materials and anti-establishment messages, combining a rejection of mainstream values with a desire for innovation and disruption. Hebdige describes punk as a form of “cultural vigilantism,” challenging the status quo and seeking change. It was also a way of rejecting the present as intolerable and boring and using shock and disturbance to wake people up.
Punk was a kind of cultural vigilantism, a way of saying that the present was intolerable and that something had to be done about it. Punk was also a way of saying that the present was intolerable because it was boring and that something had to be done about it. In this sense, punk was a kind of cultural terrorism, a way of frightening people and waking them up
Hebdige, D. (1979). Subcultures: The Meaning of Style. New York: Methuen.
So, what is this action—punk? Punk was embodied as a fashion style that focused on Vivienne Westwood’s unconventional materials and anti-establishment messages, rejecting the mainstream and accepting innovation. Punk fashion was a way of expressing a rejection of mainstream values and a desire to shock and disturb. It was a way of constructing a new identity that was rebellious and nonconformist.
A way of dressing that expressed a rejection of mainstream values and a desire to shock and disturb. Punk fashion was a way of making a statement, of saying that the wearer was different, that they did not conform to the norms and expectations of society. Punk fashion was a way of constructing a new identity, one that was rebellious and nonconformist.
Wilson, E. (1985). Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. London: Virago Press.
The brand Vivienne Westwood exemplifies how subcultures can coexist with mainstream heritage and how alternative styles can be respected and embraced rather than merely tolerated as a passing trend. Under the banner of punk, Westwood not only established her own brand but also helped to elevate British fashion as a whole. She understood the true meaning of subversion and avant-garde. Rather than positioning herself as diametrically opposed to mainstream fashion, she cleverly inserted herself within the mainstream system like a Trojan Horse. This enabled Westwood and the next generation of designers to establish themselves as part of the high fashion industry and to be recognized for their punk and alternative styles.
However, Westwood’s contributions continue beyond there. Once she has established a new mainstream for herself and her fashion becomes no longer an alternative, she immediately creates a new frontier. Rather than being a rebel herself, she uses her position as a mainstream figure to become an activist and advocate for broader issues such as climate change, animal rights, and human rights. She has used her fashion design to address these issues and encourage the fashion industry to consider sustainability and social responsibility. In this way, Westwood’s focus has expanded beyond fashion to encompass society, and she has used her creativity and influence to make a difference.
Westwood and punk have had a lasting influence on avant-garde designers, and their rejection of mainstream conventions and embrace of experimentation has helped to push the boundaries of fashion. While they will always be remembered for this, as the fashion industry becomes more complex and multifaceted, with multiple systems and styles coexisting, the role of figures like Westwood may shift from being at the forefront to being a catalyst for change.
Nevertheless, her impact on fashion and society will continue to be felt for years to come. Through Vivienne Westwood, it is time to think about how to pioneer one’s own territory, how to act and what attitude to maintain when the structure and flow of a vast industry and society change, rather than punk style design. We will continue to pioneer new territory, and the next punk for a new domain will happen outside of fashion now, just like the beginning of Vivienne Westwood. We still need designers and activists like Vivienne Westwood.
may live eternal rest.
